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 Post subject: 166k maintenance needs
PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 
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Location: Bradenton
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Name: Todd
Model Year: 1995
Hi Guys,
So my Miata has 166,000 well maintained miles on it but I am the 3rd owner. I was told the timing belt was done in 2012 but I don't know if the water pump, tension pulley's were replaced or not. I have been tring to look up what is the required maintenance for this many miles but I am not having much luck.
Anyone here know what maintenance is required and should be done. Already plan on having the timing belt etc. done and I just changed all fluids back in August, What else should I do.? Also thinking of taking it to just Miata in St. Pete. Has any one delt with them before. Timing belt is beyond my mechanical know how but I am willing to do what ever else I can on my own, unless some one here wants to offer up some help. :) .
I look forward to your advice. Thanks

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2017 
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I thought Just Miata closed their doors several years ago.

The "Laundry List" can be found in this thread:
http://tampabaymiatas.net/forum/viewtop ... 8&p=136621

Aside from timing belt related stuff, if you haven't already, you may want to:
check the brakes (clean & lube the slide pins, flush and bleed the fluid)
flush and bleed the clutch fluid
check wheel bearings
check suspension and steering
check shifter boots
change transmission fluid
check engine mounts
check spark plug wires
change spark plugs

Just the usual maintenance stuff.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2017 
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Location: Bradenton
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I honestly don't know if Just miata is still open or not but there web site is still up and they are listed on Angies list. I have yet to give them a call though. Thanks for the link Loren

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2017 
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You'll find better reviews on this forum for Maztech in Tampa. I have no personal experience, I mostly do my own work.

If you're in Bradenton, I can vouch for Tod Byram (http://www.byramsautorepair.com/). He's not Miata exclusive, but he's owned a few, is a good mechanic, builds GRM challenge cars, autocrosses, and is an all-around good guy. Had his shop do some work on my truck a year or so ago.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2017 
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Location: Bradenton
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Model Year: 1995
Thanks Loren. I'm doing heater and radiator hoses today as I had a heater hose blow out on me last night. I will give Tod a call. Thanks again

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2017 
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I'll second the cleaning and lubing of the brake slide pins, and checking (likely changing) the shifter boots. Those shifter boots don't live long lives. If you feel excessive heat around your console or shifter, your boots are probably gone.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2017 
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Location: Bradenton
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Model Year: 1995
I changed the shifter boots back in august along with the whole shifter kit and new oil in the turret. Also put in new transmission and differential fluid as well. Clutch slave and master have also been replaced back in August. Put on new coil overs three months ago. All suspension bushings look good. I am do for a brake job so I will definitely clean and lube brake slide pins.
Any other suggestions. This is a very clean 95 and I want to keep it that way. I really am trying to make it last another 100,000 miles.
I'm wondering if there is benefit to an upgraded radiator such as the mishimoto, ( or similar), and is there a way to increase engine oil capacity to aid in keeping the engine cooler? I have heard about engine oil re-routes and such but on the other hand I am not driving a race car. lol Just looking for durability and longevity.
I really don't have a clue. Just looking for advice.
Thanks

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2017 
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There is nothing (N O T H I N G) that you need (NEED) to do to extend the durability and longevity of a relatively stock daily driven Miata. All the coolant reroutes and whatever else you can come with are really only necessary if the engine is highly modified (turbo putting out well over 220 hp, or regularly track-driven HARD). Under normal circumstances, everything will last over 300k miles with just normal maintenance. Regular oil changes, never let the cooling system go to the point that something leaks and causes it to overheat, never let things that can leak oil go long enough that the oil level can get low, ensure that all of the maintenance work is done 100% correctly, etc.

There are random rare problems that can creep up, but there's literally nothing you can do to prevent that.

If your old radiator has plastic tanks that look like they're about to start cracking or leaking, or you're having overheating problems that you think might be due to a clogged radiator, then get a new radiator. If not, don't. You don't need a fancy brand name radiator, or an "upgrade". Just a plain ol' good quality stock type replacement.

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 
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Location: Bradenton
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ok thanks Loren. No sense in spending money if I don't need to.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 
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Loren wrote:
There is nothing (N O T H I N G) that you need (NEED) to do to extend the durability and longevity of a relatively stock daily driven Miata.

This.

Zoomer8910 wrote:
I really am trying to make it last another 100,000 miles.

I should see 248,000 miles within the next few days. Driven 50-80 miles daily, and autocrossed 2-3 times/month since 15,000 miles. Replaced the radiator awhile back when the plastic tank cracked...~$100 and 90 minutes work. Picked up a little grind going into 5th at about 240,000 -- rev matching through it now, but have a $350 120k mile tranny on hand to fix that eventually. Differential locked up at 245,000...the first Torsen diff I've ever heard of failing. Engine...untouched other than regularly scheduled maintenance. 10W30 dinosaur juice in the sump because I'm neither living on the redline for hours at a time or worried about below-zero starts, and I like to drain the dirt out of it every 3000 miles.

You'll make another 100k, no problem. :)

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2017 
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Location: Bradenton
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Awesome to here. Getting the timing belt, water pump. all the seals, head cover gasket blah, blah, blah done today. All hoses have been changed so I should be good for awhile. Only other thing is it is still hard to put into first gear and reverse when the car is running. Once I am in those gears all is fine, (although sometimes there is a squeaking noise when I am backing up), when car is off all gears shift fine. Can't figure this one out, but as I said it's stiff to put into those gears but it all works fine otherwise, Thanks for the advice guys.
Feeling good about all the work I have or had done so far.
Loren thanks for suggesting Tod Braham. He seems to be a great guy and very reasonably priced as well.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2017 
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Zoomer8910 wrote:
Only other thing is it is still hard to put into first gear and reverse when the car is running. Once I am in those gears all is fine, (although sometimes there is a squeaking noise when I am backing up), when car is off all gears shift fine. Can't figure this one out, but as I said it's stiff to put into those gears but it all works fine otherwise, Thanks for the advice guys.

Clutch slave cylinder is a likely culprit. (possibly the master, but the slave is a known weak area on the NA) If it's losing a little pressure, the clutch doesn't release all the way, makes it hard to get into gear when you're not moving. Also not healthy for your synchros. Cheap and easy to replace. And you'll be replacing it again. They rarely last more than 60k... and often fail between 30 and 40k if not sooner.

Quote:
Feeling good about all the work I have or had done so far.
Loren thanks for suggesting Tod Braham. He seems to be a great guy and very reasonably priced as well.

Yeah, Tod is cool.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2017 
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I replaced both the slave and master back in August. It didn't fix the problem. Bled the lines out but the fluid is still dark.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2017 
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Then it's down to clutch adjustment, bad synchros, or... one of your new parts is bad. (it happens)

Or... maybe there was a stubborn bubble when you bled it, and maybe if you bleed it again, you'll work it out?

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2017 
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Location: Bradenton
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Model Year: 1995
Pick up my car from Tod Bryams and the car is running amazingly. Purrs like a kitten. Tod is a good guy thanks for suggesting him Loren and he is very close to my house as well, I will try bleeding the clutch line again to see if that improves any thing. Tod said his 94 does the same thing. He didn't seem to think it was any thing to worry about. I have been driving it for 9 months with 1st and reverse being sticking and other than then the initial shift in everything works fine. Perhaps I am just being a worry wart.

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