Door Woofer Installation
1. Use an upholstery pry tool to pull off the plastic cover next to the door lock. I had to pry once on the side, then once on the corner where there is a hole. Then it popped right off. Pics:
2. With the cover popped off, you will see a screw. Remove that screw. Pic:
3. Inside of the pocket as part of the door handle by the arm rest, you will see a rubber cover. Remove it. I couldn't really fit my fingers in there, so I used a small upholstery tool. You don't need much, if any, force; it's just a tight space. Pics:
4. Remove the newly exposed screw:
5. Grab the plastic door panel from behind, but be sure not to grab the weather stripping. Start by the bottom corner of the speaker and pull until you hear a pop, like so:
6. Work your way to the back of the car, popping the snaps off as you go. Pic:
7. The last snap you should pull off is right where the body color meets the leather toward the FRONT of the car. On my car, this one was extra stubborn:
8. From the opposite side of the door, you can easily see the lock assembly. From this side, pull toward you while also sliding it to the back of the car. It will separate from the rest of the door trim. Pic:
9. On the bottom of the door trim, under the arm rest, you will find two electronic connectors. I've pointed one of them out in this pic; you can see the other in the pic, but I didn't point it out. Remove them. They have little tabs that need to be pressed before they will be released.
10. Now place your door trim somewhere safe. Somewhere soft and away from my cat is a good choice.
11. You can now easily see the factory speaker. Use your tiny flathead screwdriver to release the tab on the connector. Pull out and unplug the connector. Pics
12. Unbolt the 3 bolts that hold in the speaker. Grab the speaker enclosure and pull it out. You may need to shimmy it a bit; it has a couple invisible tabs that were a little stuck, but it doesn't need much force.
13. Looking directly at the plug that is left on the car like this, the left-most and right-most slots are empty. The inner-left slot is the negative terminal, the inner-right slot is the positive terminal. Keep this in mind for polarity. Pic:
14. Strip off an end of the 14 gauge solid copper wire. Take your pliers and flatten a tip. Work your way up the wire for about a quarter inch, flattening the whole thing. You're essentially making a very small spade connector. Go ahead and make two of them; cut them with some extra slack. Pics:
15. Crimp the two connectors you just made into the crimp-splices. Then crimp them onto a 6 inch patch of speaker wire. Basically, now you're making a custom pigtail our of your connectors. Pics:
16. Solder your new pigtail to the new woofer:
17. Go back to your door. Push out the snap that holds the thick cable under the speaker, as in these pics:
18. You now have space to slip in a sheet of Lexan. Do that, then grab your sharpie and mark where the factory bolt locations are. Pics:
19. Now place the bracket that came with your speakers centered in the three dots you traced off the door. Use it as a stencil to trace a hole for the new speaker. Pics:
20. Go ahead and free-hand a border around it. I kept the bracket on it to help me have a reference. Pics:
21. Using a 5/16 inch drill bit, drill three holes directly through the "hole" line. This will let you fit your jigsaw blade in there and give you some start/stop points to work with. Pic:
22. I clamped the Lexan and cut it with my jigsaw, moving it from section to section. Pics:
23. Drill a 1/4 inch hole in each of the dots that you originally traced from the car door. This will let the original bolts fit easily. Pics:
24. Place the new speaker in the inner hole. Make sure the terminals are facing "up", where "up" is the new speaker's mounting hole is exactly half way between two of the orignal mounting holes that bolt into the car. This is important; it will let us route our wires correctly. Once aligned, use your marker to mark the holes, then drill through them with a 1/4 inch bit. Pics:
25. Pick a side that will face the car. On this side, apply some strips of Dynamat. Poke through the speaker mounting holes so you can keep track of them. Pic:
26. On the side that faces the cabin, where the speaker will be inserted, apply some insulating material. Most speakers come with a foam ring, as mine did, so I went ahead and installed that. Pic:
27. Place the new woofer into the Lexan contraption that we made. Place the plastic ring that it came with behind it on the other side. Use the small screws that it came with to install it, making sure that the speaker is facing "up" as defined in step 24. You must use the small screws so that they don't protrude out the back. It will look like this:
28. Now place more Dynamat strips on any part that will come in contact with the door. It'll look like this:
29. Snap this thick cable back in on your door:
30. Use the original bolts to bolt the speaker back in. Be sure to route the pigtail up through the indentation in the door. Connect the pigtail to the factory connector (for polarity, see step 13). Tuck the slack behind the plexiglass. Pics:
31. Most of my upholstery snaps got stuck in the door. Before reinstalling your door trim, check for all of these snaps. Use the tool to remove them, then you can easily slide them into your trim piece. Pics:
32. Follow the door disassembly instructions in reverse.
33. Repeat steps 1 through 32 on the other side of the car.*** That's it! You're done! ***
I hope this helps. Feel free to ask questions.